Control panel for foundation garments



April 1966 1. T. JENNINGS 3,246,651

CONTROL PANEL FOR FOUNDATION GARMENTS Filed Jan. 10, 1964 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. 4/4 01 41? 7 (/aF/V/V/d s April 19, 1966 L. T. JENNINGS CONTROL PANEL FOR FOUNDATION GARMENTS 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Jan. 10, 1964 INVENTOR 460/144? 7 (/f/V/V/ VGS BY Wu m/ W United States Patent Ofiice 3,246,651 CQNTRQL PANEL FOR FOUNDATION GARMENT S Leonard T. Jennings, 902 Lapeer Sh, Saginaw, Mich. Filed Jan. 10, 1964, set. No. 336,921 3 Claims. (Cl. 128-580) The present invention relates to a unique control panel for foundation garments such as girdles, brassieres, corsets and the like which provide body contour molding. More particularly, the present invention comprises a system for overlaying darted portions of garments wherein the material of the garment panel overlay modifies the stressing at particular darted angles so as to provide a selectively controllable medium for body restraint.

Still more particularly, the invention relates to the integral forming of a panel element in which progressive overlays accomplish variant strength areas of local support.

It is desirable in foundation garments to particularly provide regions of greater and lesser control. The resulting contour is frequently a function of styling and fashion. Accordingly, panels have been devised which employ combinations of resilient and non-resilient fabrics wherein stresses in resilient areas impose tightening of non-resilient adjacent panels. In some instances bones or stays are selectively incorporated in portions of foundation garments to provide-additional control. Not unusually several plies of fabric are stitched together in a variety of specific patterns to. render a particular panel peculiarly resistant to expansion and thereby increase the local holding-in effect as necessary. This type of approach is seen inthe U.S. Letters Patent 2,722,008 to Cantello as two layers of relatively non-resilient fabric are provided in a foundation garment front panel and both registering layers are independently stitched and positioned in opposite registering sense to provide a grid or criss-cross of relatively stiff seams.

Each ofthese approaches has the substantial disadvantage that the flexural characteristics of the control panel are at substantial variance from adjacent panels and physiological variances from wearer to wearer cannot completely be compensated for by reliance on the resilient adjacent panels. In brief, such garments must rely upon the resilience of adjacent panels for control.

The present invention affords a completely new ap proach to contour control by utilizing a system of control in which a fabric, stretchable in one direction and relatively resistant to stretch in a direction at right angles to the stretchable fibers, is used as the panel base material. Without more, the mere use of such a fabric would be unworkable as anything other than single layer control. The present invention, however, provides a means for modifying the extremes between resilience and non-resilience in a directional manner by an overlay of similar fabric so that the stress characteristics of the panel are modified to utilize resultant forces from available stretch in the registering resilient and non-resilient components. Further, each zone of transition control is provided with a relatively resilient boundary so that the assembled panel presents a differential stress pattern over its entire area. This is of substantial importance to garment manufacturers since means are thus made available in a particular style of garment to provide selectively greater or lesser localized control in all size ranges. In use, the garments in accord with the present invention are particularly comfortable and the variant positions of the wearer do not tend to pucker or fold the panel material as has been 3,246,651 Patented Apr. 19, 1956 observed in other forms of control panels and the absence of bones or stays provides an avoidance of annoyances such as pinching or binding.

The principal object of the present invention is to teach the adoption of a unique panel applicable to control areas in foundation garments.

Another object is to provide means of selectively varying the stressing in particular size ranges of garments and in particular areas without materially deviating from the selected styling of the garment.

Another object is to provide a control panel using resilient materials wherein resiliency is provided in one direction and relative non-resiliency is provided in the opposed direction and wherein a similar overlay of similar material with different orientation of stretch direction modifies the stress imposed by the stretch appearing in the first panel.

Another object is to provide means in a panel wherein degree of control is a function of angular orientation of overlay and with stress characteristics which are a composite of overlying and underlying plaques.

Still another object is to provide a control panel adaptable to variant'anatomical positioning as across the abdomen, bust, buttok, or thighs and wherein the control sensation on the part of the wearer can be likened to a plurality of resilient fingers applied to the area requiring control. The variance between adjacent control zones accentuates this sensation on the part of the wearer.

In the drawings:

FIGURE 1 is a plan view of a pattern of material resilient or stretchable in one direction of fiber and nonresilient in the opposite fiber direction for forming a control panel in accord with the present invention.

FIGURE 2 is a plan view of a pair of opposite sym metrical panel halves prepared in accord with FIGURE 1 and provided with plural overfolds of materials as resulting from the FIGURE 1 pattern.

FIGURE 3 is a fragmental plan view of fabric overlay indicating the modification of stress characteristics in each zone of overlap as results from the FIGURE 2 arrangement.

FIGURE 4 is a front elevation view of a garment prepared in accord with the present invention and having its symmetrical control panel positioned in accord with selected control in the abdomen area.

FIGURE 5 is a plan view of a modified panel arrangement wherein separate overlays have been selectively stitched to the base fabric and wherein the base fabric provides a constant stress pattern and the overlays deviate therefrom in stress pattern and in angle of physical location.

FIGURE 6 is a fragmental plan view of the overlays expressed in FIGURE 5 and more clearly shows the constant base layer material stress and the modifying effect of the overlay layer pieces.

FIGURE 7 is a plan view layout utilizing the present invention for a cup-type support panel, as useful, for example, in buttock or bust control, wherein a base material is provided with selected stress overlays.

General description In general, the present invention extends the usefulness of a fabric material which flexes substantially in one direction, but resists flexure in a direction at right angles to the flexible 0r resilient strands. The material ideal for foundation garment use is an open weave or mesh providing excellent breathing characteristics. To date such material has been used in a variety of garment applications wherein the line of major resilience is specifically developed in the garment patterns to vary the overall stress pattern of a panel. The present invention moves beyond the obvious simple usage of a panel of the mesh material to the superimposition of an additional layer of fabric stitched locally over the fabric base so as to modify the resilient or flexing character of the underlayment to cause a resultant modification of the stress characteristics of the panel in a zone-like manner. The invention is also directed to the use of plural adjacent overlays providing adjacent zones of selected differential control so that incremental and differential support is available within a single panel of mesh material. The breathing characteristics of such a fabric are not destroyed and the variant zones of stress within a given panel allow a most desirable and gradual redistribution of flesh mass without abrupt transition. This materially extends the garment makers art by teaching a boneless support construction and by making possible a substantial modification of stresses in a base fabric material by the overlay of identical material at angles selectively deviating from the stress lines or directions in the base layer of fabric material. As will be appreciated the invention also encompasses incremental shifting of the stretch-nonstretch characteristics of the underlayment fabric lay to achieve a selected control.

In contrast to a prior constant stress established by a base material having known stretch characteristics, combinations are now available within particular zones of a garment panel to apply variations in stress characteristics as locally desired in any particular panel.

In the abdominal area, panels in accord with the present invention and arranged in a symmetrical manner, provide a differential hold-in function that is variable from plaque area to plaque area and provides comfort in an area of control where previous discomfort was a function of the degree of control required.

The identical control concept is extendable to the modeling of hips and bust regions and in accord with the vagaries of fashion extends in usefulness to the contouring of the buttocks of garment wearers.

Specific description The invention is best understood by reference to the drawings and with particularity to the FIGURE 1 where an open mesh fabric 11 is shown, stretchable in one direction, resistant to stretch in the other direction of line BB (vertical as shown). The material or fabric is elastically deformable in one direction in the plane of the fabric. The strands of the fabric paralleling the line AA are made of elastic material. In the direction of line BB the strands of the fabric (vertical) are resistant to elastic deformation. Accordingly, the fabric 11 as shown is an open mesh weave stretchable horizontally and resistant to stretch vertically as shown in FIGURE 1. In some panels where the open-mesh fabric is unnecessary, close mesh fabrics well known in the art may be used provided that they are resilient in one direction only. In FIGURE 1 a half panel 12 is cut in accord with a selected pattern along the outline 13 to provide an ultimate outer contour when selected portions of the fabric 11 are overlapped as shown in FIGURE 2. The cutting lines 14, 15 and 16 are shown in FIGURE 1 indicating how the half-panel 12 achieves the ultimate configuration seen in FIGURE 2.

The cut lines 14, 15 and 16 do not completely sever the fabric into pieces but isolate regions 17, 18, 19 and 20 from top to bottom. This allows the uppermost region 17 to overlap the next adjacent region 18, and region 18 then may overlap region 19, and region 19 then can overlap the region 21). This being done, a plurality of regions of overlap 21, '22 and 23 result and these are marginally stitched to the underlying layer of fabric by a stitching 24 as best seen in FIGURE 4. The perimeter stitching 24 is accomplished in the unstressed condition and may be zig-zag, feather stitching, or other types well known in the art, to permit flexural movement as between the underlayer and upperlayer without interfering with the stress relationship. As will be appreciated two control features are now introduced. Firstly, the fabric 11 is caused to overlay itself at selected angles thus modifying the degree of elasticity or non-elasticity in accord with a resultant stress capability in both of the overlying and the underlying layers of fabric 11. Secondly, the angle of the overlapped portions provides a means for adjustment of the stress characteristics in any particular overlay area 21, 22 and 23. Both of these functions, related or resultant stress in overlay, and selection of angle to adjust stress can be selected in the pattern evolving for any particular garment to provide a whole new system of stress control. In this particular it will be noted that resistance to deformation varies in overlap 21 from overlap 22, from overlap 23, yet some of the elasticity (a function of the compounding of direction of elastic fibers in each layer of registering fabric) remains.

The use of the pattern contour 13 for the half panel 12 is further illustrative of the modification of the stretch characteristics when the half panel 12 achieves its final orientation, as indicated by the relative differences in stress characteristics found in the region 20 and region 17 (lower and upper) as a consequence of preparation of the selected plural overlays. A matching opposite half panel 12 is prepared similarly and when symmetry of stress is desired the two panels are oriented as shown in FIGURE 2 and when joined at the vertical seam achieve the complete front panel form 25 as seen in FIGURE 4. In FIGURE 2 a portion has been cut away from the over lap area 21' to reveal the variance in stress characteristics between the underlay 26 and the outer layer, both from the same fabric 11. In each of the regions of overlap 21, 22 and 23 a variant composite stress emerges as se= lected for a given design of garment. Accordingly, considering the progressive shift in stress characteristics, a differential stress is applied in successive regions of over-' lap. Adjacent areas or zones 27, 28 and 29 and 30 are single layers of fabric but are also varied from each other in stress capabilities as the result of the particular inven tive concept expressed in FIGURES 1-4. This is best understood by reference to FIGURE 3 wherein a fragmental elevation is shown indicating the selected overlay at the center seam 31 and each region of overlay 21, 22 and 23 having superimposed thereon overlay force arrows approximately representing the resultant orientation of elastic versus non-elastic characteristics as a consequence of the selected overlay. The adjacent smaller force arrows represent the reoriented stretch (horizontal) and no stretch (vertical) in the adjacent single layer regions.

While the FIGURES 1-4 inclusive show a single adaptation of my invention it will be appreciated that innumerable selections and stressing variants will result as a matter of garment design utilizing this control disclosure. A garment 32 utilizing the teachings of FIG- URES 1, 2 and 3 is shown in FIGURE 4 wherein half panels 12 and 12' are joined at seam 31 by stitching 33 and the completed front panel 25 is secured by stitching 34 to adjacent side panels as desired and the entire finished garment is trimmed as by bindings 35 and 36. While a front panel 25 has been used to illustrate an application of the invention, it will be appreciated that the invention is utilizable in various control settings and in curvilinear as well as rectilinear form.

FIGURE 5 is illustrative of the invention practiced by utilizing a regular base element 37 over which are placed selectively and differently oriented similar open mesh material plaques 38, 39 and 4-0 elastic in one direction. The base element 37 maintains a constancy of stress characteristic throughout and the overlays 38, 49 and 40 are cut and positioned to variously and differentially provide a resultant local stress characteristic as exemplified in the force arrows superimposed on the overlap regions 41 and -42 in FIGURE 6. In addition it will be clearly appreciated that the underlayment may be locally reoriented as desired so that an approximation of the result of the FIG- URE 2 stressing can be achieved using separate zones of reoriented underlayment or base material. As previously described each region of overlap is variable in relation to the next adjacent region and by variance in the positioning and angles of the regions of overlay an even broader range of control is achieved not hampered by the limits imposed by pattern design as seen in FIGURES l and 2. Stitching 42 such as zig-zag, feather or the like well known in the trade secures the edges of the overlay at the perimeter of the overlay and does not interfere with the resultant stress characterizationand is not uncomfortable. Panel halves 37 and 37 are then joined at line 44 in a vertical seam where used as a front panel in a garment.

As will be appreciated by those skilled in the art, the panel prepared in accord with FIGURES 5 and 6 admits of retention of a common base stress set of elastic versus inelastic characteristics and the overlay plaque pieces 38, 39 and 40 can be positioned advantageously and independently of the base pattern. However, it will be noted that Where a single thickness of mesh material appears, the set characteristics of the base material 37 controls subject to selection of a particular angular deviation in the direction of fibers in the mesh and shown in the FIGURE 6 is about a degree deviation from vertical. The differential stressing is dependent upon the overlay regions as 41 and 42'. As previously indicated the underlayment may be varied by providing reorientation of the stretchnonstretch characteristics so as to achieve, with individual plaques, the results as set forth in FIGURE 2 Where overlap is integrally accomplished. While rectilinear overlays are shown, it will be appreciated that curvilinear overlays can be used advantageously.

In FIGURE 7 advantage is taken of curvilinear overlays to provide a contour modeling panel 45 for more localized application of the present invention as adapted, for example, to a brassiere bust cup or a buttock modeling cup. The configuration selected is subject to design modification in accord with particular current fashion and the demands of a particular contour molding objective. In brassieres, for example, a particular design might be dictated by degree of uplift, containment, or exaggeration as currently considered desirable. In a buttock cup the buttocks may be separately identified, and the contour molded flat or rounded as considered fashionable.

In FIGURE 7 the inventive concepts previously expressed find application to a usage wherein control is desired over a rounded flesh mass as contrasted to a flesh mass where substantial containment and flattening is de sired. The completed cup panel 45 is made up of a pair of cup halves 46 and 46' which are joined as by stitching at their common edges 48 and 48' to provide a symmetrical contour. The principles and the structure might also be integral or in a single cup of one piece construction and in varying degrees of a symmetrical arrangement With-out departure from the Spirit of the control usage herein eX- pressed. The two piece form is illustrative of a common cup form and may be associated with covering lace, net, or the like and trim as desired. In FIGURE 7 is shown the clear usage of a plurality of curvilinear overlays 49 and 50 positioned over a base material 51 and stitched thereto as by marginal stitching 52. The cup panel half 46 is similarly prepared as will be appreciated. In the structure of FIGURE 7 it will be noted that the mesh m erial (prefer bly open) i differently orient d in the direction of elastic and inelastic movement in the base material 51 and the overlay pieces 49 and 50. The overlay pieces are also oriented differently than each other as respects shape and elastic-inelastic stress directions. Accordingly, in the structure of FIGURE 7 zones of more or less elasticity are provided to gently model a contour or shape of the human figure and each zone of pressure varies from the next adjacent zone thereby providing a differential application of modelling pressure. As noted in reference to FIGURES 5 and 6 the underlayment or base material 51 can be regionally reoriented to achieve a selected variance in stretch-no stretch characteristics.

The impression experienced by a wearer of garments prepared in accord with the present invention is an impression of gentle finger-like application of pressures across abdomen, buttocks and bus-ts. The sensation is quite unlike bones or resilient seaming as previously known in the art. New dimensions of control are available to garment manufacturers as a consequence of the utilization of the described control conception. The garments so prepared are lighter in weight and superior in comfort to previous control devices. The open mesh form of fabric breathes nicely and flexes with normal and athletic body movement to provide a substantial freed-om of movement while regional restraints are continuously imposed.

Stress as available in the panels and elements disclosed herein has reference to the capabilities of the fabric and material to apply control stresses to the body of a wearer when it is itself subjected to stress imposed by the body or flesh it restrains. Accordingly, when a panel is prepared in accord With the disclosure herein, it is made and prepared in unstressed relation. It becomes stressed when applied to a use setting. Thereupon the action imposes particular stress to particular elements and in particular ways as described to enhance control of a torso or figure.

The present description will be understood to include the superimposition of one layer of stretch-no stretch fabric upon another in both an integral (FIGURES 1, 2, 3, 4) manner and in a non-integral manner (FIGURES 5 and 6) wherein underlayment and overlayment may be separate pieces and at variant angles.

Having thus described by invention a number of improvements and modifications will occur to those skilled in the art. Such changes are intended to be included herein limited only by the scope of the hereinafter appended claims.

I claim:

1. contour modeling panel for foundation garments comprising:

(a) a base fabric being elastic in one direction and being relatively inelastic in a direction normal to said elastic direction;

(b) at least one cut in a line substantially completely across said base fabric and separating said base fabric into two parts and an adjacent portion of one of said two parts overlapping the other of said two parts at said out to form a wedge shaped zone of overlay; and,

(c) peripheral stitching defining said zone of overlay of said base fabric.

2. In a process for preparation of a foundation garment control panel from open mesh material having elasticity in one direction of the weave and inelasticity in a direction normal to said elastic direction, the steps which include:

(a) laying out a base panel pattern;

(b) diagonally cutting straight lines in said pattern in spaced intervals selected in direction so as to establish selected variations in elastic directions when overlap occurs adjacent said straight line cuts;

(c) overlapping said base material in selected amounts whereby said elastic directions as between adjacent portions of said panel material are thrown out of register to form wedges of overlay; and,

(d) stitching the edges of said wedges defining said zones of overlay in unstressed condition whereby the resulting panel is differentially resistant to stressing in each zon of overlap and in each intermediate zone of base panel material.

3. A contour control panel for applying differential stress to a portion of the human torso comprising:

(a) a pair of symmetrically positioned base panel pieces, each being fabricated from a piece of ma- 7" 8 terial which is relatively elasticin one directionandi (c) stitching defining zones of overlay each of said relativelyinelasticiu a. direction normal to said elasticzones providing differential resistance to stressing. directio n, said pair of panel pieces being joined. at h i li f symmetry; References Cited by the Examiner (b) a plnrality of wedge-shaped elements overlaying 5 UNITED STATES PATENTS said base panel pieces and symmetrically arranged on,

each side of said line of symmetry, each of said wedge gz gg g shaped pieces in spaced apart relation from each 2761146 9/1956 M8310 i' 128:540 other and eachof said wedge shaped piecesbeing of 3 3 7/1964 Sch g; I 128 542 material substantially the same as the material of 1o, on e g fl said base paneLpieces but wherein said directions of F REI N PATENTS elasticity and inelasticity are in selected variance. from 7 0,174 11 195 Great Britain register with said directions of-v elasticity and inelasticitys in said base layer; and, ADELE M. EAGER, Primary Examiner. 

1. A CONTOUR MODELING PANEL FOR FOUNDATION GARMENTS COMPRISING: (A) A BASE FABRIC BEING ELASTIC IN ONE DIRECTION AND BEING RELATIVELY INELASTIC IN A DIRECTION NORMAL TO SAID ELASTIC DIRECTION; (B) AT LEAST ONE CUT IN A LINE SUBSTANTIALLY COMPLETELY ACROSS SAID BASE FABRIC AND SEPARATING SAID BASE FABRIC INTO TWO PARTS AND AN ADJACENT PORTION OF ONE OF SAID TWO PARTS OVERLAPPING THE OTHER OF SAID TWO PARTS AT SAID CUT TO FORM A WEDGE SHAPED ZONE OF OVERLAY; AND, (C) PERIPHERAL STITCHING DEFINING SAID ZONE OF OVERLAY OF SAID BASE FABRIC. 